(PRE)PIRINEOS between COSTA BRAVA and CÔTE BASQUECañonitis, Congosteria, Barrancade, Gorgesmania, Cirquessima, Picerie, Cuevania, Cinglesitis and some other a-STONE-ishing things about the PyreneesFrance I: Perpignan – Côte Vermeille –
Catalunya I: Costa Brava/Empordà –
Catalunya II: Girona – Vall de Llémena – Collsacabra/Vall de Sau/Montseny – Vic – Súria – Solsona – El Segre –
Catalunya III: Pantà de Camarasa – Sierra de Montsec – Vall del Noguera Ribagorçana – Vall de Boí/Parc Nacional de Aigüestortes –
Aragón I: Sierra de Ballabriga – Ainsa – Sierra de Guara – Huesca – Sierra de Loarre –
Aragón II-a: Cinco Villas –
Navarra I: Bardenas Reales – Hoz de Lumbier –
Aragón II-b: Embalse de Yesa/Rio Aragón/Valle de Hecho – Canfranc –
France II: Béarn/Hautes Pyrénées/Parc National des Pyrénées –
Navarra II-a/b: Sierra de Abodi/Irati –
France III-a/b: Pays Basque/Iraty (a) – Labourde/Côte Basque/Hendaye (b)
36 travelling days = 35 cycling days + 1 walking day
+ 1 arrival day by train + night cycling (Perpignan – Collioure, 33 km/165 Hm)
+ 1 departure day by train + cycling tour (Gare d’Austerlitz – Gare de l’Est/Strasbourg – Rastatt, 74 km/160 Hm)
Fotos: ca. 3850 (total), ca. 3450 (worked out), ca. 1520 (in the galleries of this report)
Total (cycling days): 35 d | 2809 km | 48945 Hm | ca. 84 passes
Averages: 80 km/d | 1398 Hm/d | 6:35 h/d | 12,2 km/h
Hm-Index (difficulty): 1,74 (1742 Hm/100 km) (Hm = elevation gain)
INTRODUCTION
What’s useful to know before to a look on the tour…Please notice, that this report is a short abstract of my story in the German section about „Pirineosaurus“ – a legend, a tale, a parable, too. I’m not able to translate this text, because lack of time, but because of the very specific language, too. If you understand German or you know somebody else, willing to translate something of this tale, please do that way:
Die Legende von Pirineosaurus (La Leyenda de Pirineosaurus).
In short to explain: Pirineosaurus is a figure created by myself, which is assumed to live since the time of the dinosaurs (something about 200 Mio. years ago) until today. Nobody knows, he is a real dinosaur or a human being, just with some attributes of a dinosaur. I proclaimed, that Pirineosaurus has been a figure I discovered in my dreams, after I lost my memory. But nothing of this can be assured. It is always a mix of different levels, the story is changing. It’s always unsharp like a dream. It’s a steady change between the perspective of the first person and the third person. Even the story seems to be simple, but it’s a very complex structure of different levels of senses. One of the main ideas to show that: There is no reality aside your own pictures in memory. But this memory is always changing like dreams, too. You can’t be sure, that you know the truth. There is only one way to come closer to your own reality: Try to reflect everything you alived in different perpectives and use your fantasy as well as your wisdom. The process of making reality never stops. Even there is an idea how to make sense for demented people or how to look at them. But I don’t want give you all analyzing aspects of this story, even maybe I don’t know all of them by myself. That‘s the job of the reader. Beside a travel report and the tale there is strong impact of a special language. It’s sometimes changing to poetic descriptions of landscapes. This is increasing from the beginning more and more to the end. Of course there is a dramatic end of Pirineosaurus, not sure, that he is still living on. Aside Pirineosaurus I created some figures, which have only small parts, but be important. They are called “Casco Nuevo” and “Die Möwe of Cerbère” (a sea-gull). The story finally ends with a special poem of this sea-gull (of course created by myself).
What about this abstract? – You’ll get an abstract of the 8 chapters, which include one or some more regions. Every chapter ends with a gallery of pictures (fotos & foto artwork) – 120-235 pieces in each chapter. If you push on the introducing picture, you are in the gallery. Best way to look at: Click for “Diashow”, allow “full screen”, use your arrow keys for going forward, maybe for going backward. Press the key “ESC” or “F11” for finishing full screen. You’ll find subtitles – most of them statements of the places, some German words maybe, not so important.
Please notice, that in every gallery the very last foto is always NOT in the correct sequence, because of trouble with Google+.Each chapter starts with the datas of the daily stages. Even you’ll find my supper (AE), it isn’t translated, some terms are international. Some often used abbreviations and terms: Pf = pommes frites, Rw = red wine, Kart. = potatoes, Ku. = cake, Gemüse = vegetables. Dining by day (ME) is not usual, I always eat food from markets, bakeries and other shops. Accommodations (Ü) signed as following: C = Camping, C wild (free camping), H = Hostal/Hotel. Special visiting places like museums or mountain walks are indicated with (B). Please notice that there is no digital track, I always use traditional maps. In the stages you find a detailed sequence of the villages and towns that you won’t fail the route.
Whats ‘s about the subtitle “a-STONE-ishing things”? – That’s a play on words, which ist best done in English, not in German (so I even used it in my German version). It tells you wonders of stone (canyons, mountains etc.). In French and Spanish you’ll find different terms for that. I collected some of them and transformed them in artificial superlatives, gastronomic or Olympic terms like you’ll find in the subtitle. In the original tale “a-STONE-ishing” is a distinction for important landscapes of stone, which are worth to see. Pirineosaurus uses different levels of distinction, but you can’t find that here in the English version.
What else to know? – I visited the Pyrenees for several times (now the 5th time). Even I published an English version of the
Vuelta Verde (Pyrenees = Chapter 7), just in German you’ll find
Pyrénées Cathares-Catalán. I used some music links to strengthen the character of the fotos and of the cultural identity of the regions. Even some of the music is due to the personality of Pirineosaurus. Most of this music links you’ll find in this English version, too. I placed them all before the foto galleries, which is a little bit different to the German version. Thanks for interest in advance. Enjoy the fotos an my remarks about a-STONE-ishing things in the Pyrénées. It’s always worth to visit.
What to read and to look at…Maps (maybe some are old and you get new editions)- Aragón, Cataluña/Catalunya 1:400.000 Michelin Regional 574
- Katalonien/Costa Brava 1:200.000 Die Generalkarte
- Midi-Pyrénées 1:200.000 Michelin Regional 326
- Aquitaine 1:200.000 Michelin Regional 525
- País Vasco/Euskadi, Navarra, La Rioja 1:250.000 Michelin Espagne Regional 573
- Aude, Pyrénées-Orientales 1:150.000 Michelin Departments 344
- Ariège, Haute-Garonne 1:150.000 Michelin Departments 343
- Hautes-Pyrénées, Pyrénées Atlantiques 1:150.000 Michelin Departments 342
- Pyrénées Centrales 1:150.000 Michelin Espagne Zoom 145
- Pau/Bayonne 1:100.000 IGN 166
- Alt Empordà 1:50.000 Editorial Alpina
- Vall de Sau/Collsacabra 1:40.000 Editorial Alpina
- Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici 1:25.000 Editorial Alpina
- Sierra y Cañones de Guara 1:40.000 Editorial Alpina
- Bardenas 1:35.000 cuadernos pirenaicos, sua edizioak
Recommended BooksMaybe you’ll find the English titles by yourself. I just list the German titles.
- Víctor Català: Solitud. Eine Liebesgeschichte aus Katalonien. Piper Taschenbuch, 2009 (Original 1905, dt. copyright SchirmerGraf Verlag, 2007), 380 S. Poetic language, telling the story from a woman, who feels alone aside her husband and in the deep mountains of the Pyrenees. A shepherd, telling her strange and fantastic stories, inspired her to change something in her life. It’s about erotic fantasy and self determination of woman in a society, which was conditioned by the code of the former middle classes – maybe actual today or in other parts of the world. Català herself was a Catalán woman, publishing under the name of a man.
- Rafael Chirbes: Am Ufer. Verlag Antje Kunstmann, Hardcover-Erstaufl., 2013, 430 S. An actual well known writer from Catalunya, who gives a critical view on the economy crisis in Spain in his novel, especially the real estate crisis. His language is sometimes sarcastic and harsh, but with humour, too. At last going out as a criminal story.
- Herbert Genzmer/Franz Marenits (Hg.): Europa erlesen – Barcelona. Wieser Verlag, 1999, nice hardcover, special series with writers and writings about Eurpean regions. Several texts from Miguel de Cervantes, Salvador Dalí, Hans Magnus Enzensberger, Pere Gimferrer, Joan Maragall, George Orwell, Mercé Rodoreda a. o.
- Francis Jammes: Der Hasenroman. Edition Tieger/Autorenhaus Verlag, 2009 (Original 1902, dt. Erstausgabe 1916), Hardcover, 96 S. French nature lyricism like Heinrich Heine or André Gide. A parable with a hare, who comes to heavens paradise, but not getting lucky, because loosing all his friends. Still an admiration for the Holy Franziskus. The language is etremely poetic, which gives close feeling to the nature of the Pyrenees.
- Michael Schuh: Pyrenäen-Handbuch. Reise Know-How Verlag, 4. Aufl., 2003, Taschenbuch 600 S. A big and good travel guide for the pyrenees, of course not the whole region I discovered. I’m not sure, that this series ist still available in English.
- Kurt Tucholsky: Ein Pyrenäenbuch. Insel Taschenbuch, 1. Aufl., 2007, 250 S. A classical work of travel literature, done by Berlin satirist, journalist and writer, who was persecuted by the Nazis. Giving critical views to the wonders of Lourdes and some other places in the Pyrenees. Tucholsky was not really interested in nature, so its more a general work about viewpoints of travelling. Maybe some better works existing from Tucholsky.
CHAPTER 1 – FRANCE I/CATALUNYA I: Costa Brava and behind
So 15.6.
Stuttgart || Anreise Fr/Sa || Collioure – Banyuls-s-Mer – Coll den Gran Bau (?m) – Coll de la Creu (?m) – Cerbère – Coll dels Belitres (170m) – Portbou – Coll del Frare (202m, Tunnel) – Colera – Coll de Sant Antoni (?m) – El Port de la Selva – Coll del Bosc de la Margalla (450m) – Vilajuiga – Castelló d'Empúries – Sant Pere Pescador/Camping Aquarius 93 km | 12,1 km/h | 7:37 h | 1625 Hm
Ü: C Aquarius ~ 20 €
AE: Spargelcrèmesuppe, überb. Stockfisch, Kart., Zucchini, Profiterolles, Rw, Cafe 27,20 (+)
Mo 16.6.
Sant Pere Pescador/Camping Aquarius – via Strandpiste – L'Escala – Bellcaire d'Empordà – Torroella de Montgrí – (Pals) – Platja de Pals/Illa Roja – Pals – Peratallada – Vulpellac – Palafrugell – Mont-ras 79 km | 15,9 km/h | 4:56 h | 475 Hm
Ü: C Relax Nat Mont-ras
AE (C): Crevetten-Cocktail, Hähnchenschnitzel, Pf, gegr. Tomaten, Eis, Rw 16 € (–)
B (Torroella): Museum für indian. Kultur 0 €
Di 17.6.
Mont-ras – Palafrugell – Begur – Cap de Forn – Cala Sa Tuna – Begur – Fornells de Mar – Aiguablanca – Tamariu – Llafranc – Calella de Palafrugell – Palafrugell – via Radpiste – Palamós – Sant Antoni – (Calonge) – Romanyà de la Selva 77 km | 11,1 km/h | 6:55 h | 1540 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Can Roquet): Tintenfisch mit Artischocke, Nieren, Pf, Rw, div. kulinarische Mousse & Crème, Gorgonzola-Eis/Rotweinbirne, Cafe 48,20 € (+)
Mi 18.6.
Romanyà de la Selva – Llagostera – Alt de Sant Grau (476m) – Sant Grau – Salionc – Tossa de Mar – Cala Llevadó – 3 – Tossa de Mar 47 km | 12,7 km/h | 3:38 h | 840 Hm
Ü: C Cala Llevadó 18,60 € (regulär 25 €)
AE (C): gegr. Gemüse, Seeteufel, Kart., Eisbecher, Cafe, Rw 25,20 €
Do 19.6.
Cala Llevadó – Tossa de Mar – Sant Feliu de Guixols – Platja d'Aro – Sant Antoni – Calonge – Coll de Ganga (205m) – (La Bisbal d'Empordà) – Cruilles – Monells – Puig Alt (484m)/Els Angels – Girona 97 km | 13,2 km/h | 7:22 h | 1475 Hm
Ü: H Alberg Cerverí 20 € m. Fr.
AE (El Museo del Vidi): gefüllte Kroketten, Lamm, Pf, Gemüse, Rw, warmer Schoko-Ku., Cafe 26,75 € (+)
I started from Collioure, not from Bayuls, as planned. There was a strike of the SNCF in France and I lost more than day. Collioure is always marvellous – a small town at the sea, inviting a lot of painters. From Banyuls to Cerbère I take a pass aside the main road, steeper and with some inland perspective, but coast panorama, too. The whole day there was always a strong Tramontana (wind). At the crossborder between France and Spain there are signs of the tragic younger history, i.e. those of the refugees of the Franco regime in Sapin, but from the Nazi refugees, too. One of the most prominent refugee was the Berlin philosopher Walter Benjam, who made and end to his life in Port Bou, because he feared to be captured by the Nazis. There is an impressing steel memorial above the sea. You can follow the refugee trail over the Rumpissa pass with more memorial stations – not by travel bicycle, but on foot.
Another steep mountain I caught with Sant Pere de Rodes, an ancient monastery, once maybe collected the bones of Petrus. If the first time there, you should take care to more places at the Cap de Creus. In the Empordà plain you’ll even find rice fields. I have ridden a part on
Pirinexus, which is the longest cycling way in Catalunya, covering the coast line and some higher mountain areas as well (France and Spain). Some of the most picturesque medieval villages and towns behind the coast line are Pals, Peratallada and Monells – don’t miss them. Even back of the coast there some lonely roads, i.e. via Sant Grau (a church) are from Calonge via Monells and Els Angels to Girona. A very small village, but with a special atmosphere, is Romanyà de la Selva. At her last years there was living Mercé Rodoreda, who is still important for modern Catalán literature (poetry, novels). You’ll find a restaurant gastronomique there, too.
If going for the Costa Brava coast, you should know, that the most exciting part for cycling is to find between Sant Feliu de Guixols and Tossa de Mar. If not hot season, it’s not very busied, because main transit routes are inside the country. Another nice part is around the Cap Begur. For that you should know, that there are many small beaches, just arrivable by steep blind alleys. Some of them are very busied, others less. I was lucky about Cala Sa Tuna. More busied, but with a specific atmosphere of white houses, is Calella de Palafrugell. Maybe the pearl of the Costa Brava is Tossa de Mar with an medieval town wall including seven towers. It’s always worth to visit, maybe going for some bars in the night. I didn’t used the night time, because I stayed some kilometers far away at the camping of the Cala Llevadó, which is even a very nice place for some days more (but expensive).
Music: Song of peace and Catalan identity othe great player of violincello and composer: Pau Casals „El cant dels ocells” (3:45 min.)
Memorial piece to the remembrance of Walter Benjamin, Jewish refugee of Hitler regime, died at Port Bou: Brian Ferneyhough: „Amphibolies II (Noon)“ aus: „Shadowtime“ (4:31 min.).
Sardana dance, telling the story of creation of the Empordà plain by a shepherd from the mountains and from a sirene of the sea: Enrico Morera „L’Empordà“ (4:34 min), instrumentale Orchesterfassung
Old fashioned song, from sea men imported from Cuba in L’Escala: Gavina „L’Escala“ (3:47 min.)
Blind pianist, still until today greatest jazz man of Catalunya (died 1997): Tete Montoliu Trio „Blues for Perla” (8:55 min.)Picture gallery for chapter 1 (213 Fotos):
CHAPTER 2 – CATALUNYA II: From Girona via Collsacabra/Vall de Sau to Cardona
Fr 20.6.
Girona – Sant Martí de Llémena – Les Planes d'Hostoles – Sant Feliu de Pallerols – Coll de Bas (?m) – Bas – Coll d'Uria (700m) – Coll de Condreu (1020m) – Rupit (Camping) 73 km | 13,8 km/h | 5:11 h | 1295 Hm
Ü: C Rupit 10,50 €
AE (C): Steak, Pf, Salat, Erdbeeren, RoséW, Cafe 15,45 €
B (Girona): Banys Àrabs 2 €
Sa 21.6.
Rupit (Camping) – Coll de Bac (1000m) – Cantonigròs – (exc. Wanderung: Salt de la Foradada, ca. 1 h) – l'Esquirol – Tavertet – l'Avenc – Rajols – C153 – Rupit – (exc. Salt de Sallent) – Coll de Pendis (?m) – Presa de Sau – Vilanova de Sau – Pont de Malafogassa 76 km | 12,3 km/h | 5:41 h | 1210 Hm
Ü: C El Pont 0 € (reg. 15 €)
AE (La Cucina de Celia): Miesmuscheln, Calamari, Gambas, Ente, Zitronen-Crème, Rw, Cafe 29,15 € (+)
B (Cantonigròs): La Foradada 0 €
So 22.6.
Pont de Malafogassa – Coll de Faja (1000m) – Collsabena (983m) – G542 – Cosota de Matamala – Sant Hilari Sacalm – Arbucies – Coll de Ravell (820m) – Espinelves – Coll del Buc (725m) – Coll de Romegats (725m) – San Julià de Vilatorta – Folgueroles – Tavernoles – Fussimanya 82 km | 11,2 km/h | 7:16 h | 1885 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Fussimanya): gegr. Gemüse, Toastbrot mit Tom., Lamm, Kart., Crème Catalán/Ananas, Rw, Cafe 31,80 € (++)
Mo 23.6.
Fussimanya – Coll de Terrades (530m) – Parador de Sau – Can Matou – Vilanova de Sau – Collsesvinyes (750m) – Folgueroles – Vic – Santa Eulàlia de Riuprimer – Coll de Fontfreda (877m) – Santa Maria dOló – Avinyo – Collet de Vilaseca (425m) – Balsareny – Súria – Cardona 116 km | 13,9 km/h | 8:18 h | 1735 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE: Calamares, Salat, Pf, Kalbschnitzel, Crème Catalán, Cafe 20,15 €
Girona is a very pleasant town with nice restaurants and bars, influenced by student live, even cycling is normal in the town (ancient city is carless). There is a lot of fantasy in the town. You can look at the river with its bridges and the coloured houses. In the old Jewish quarter you’ll find places of tranquility, for that even visit the Arab bath. There are good shops for coloured ceramic an other distinguished handicraft.
The valley north are easy to ride. The Vall de Llémena is a very remote area, don’t expect much infrastructure. You still come closer to Garrotxa vulcan region. If you want go for that, try to find out some offroad tracks, which are maybe rideable. Otherwise there is the road to Olot. Southwest Garrotxa there is a very interesting cycling region, the Collsacabra/Vall de Sau. This describes the mountains and valleys around the river El Ter (reachable direct from Girona, too). There are some small villages, some campings, some mountain bike stations. There are a lot of table mountains, some of them with red stone, beause containing iron. The more stony, exciting part is around the Pantà de Sau, around Susqueda lake there is more wood. You should inform precisely, maybe with the Alpina map, noticed above. There are a lot of hidden places worth to visit like special waterfalls (reachable by walking). Rupit is the most picturesque village there. But notice, that there are lonely places for staying or dining like the Fussimanya restaurant, the camping at Malafogassa bridge or the wood houses somewhere west of this. I have ridden even a part at the border to the Montseny natural parc, which would be worth to cross with highest mountain (ca. 1700 m), but was not possible on this tour.
Another town with a pleasant way of life is Vic. There are different architectural styles to look at. The town is famous for the university like Girona and for spicy sausages, too. The route to Súria in the salt valley isn’t so important, but includes some nice parts, too. Súria is the centre of the potassium salt mining, Cardona as well. Cardona is very impressing with two castles on top, the old town around. There was a lot of firework in the night because of feast of Johannis.
Catalan composer and pianist of neo impressionism: Frederic Mompou „El Pont“ (6:11 min.).Picture gallery for chapter 2 (210 Fotos):
CHAPTER 3 – CATALUNYA III: The valleys Noguera, Sierra Montsec & national parc Aigüestortes
Di 24.6.
Cardona – Solsona – Collada de Clarà (880m) – Sant Tirs – Madrona – C14 – Ponts – Artesa de Segre – Cubells 83 km | 13,6 km/h | 6:15 h | 1150 Hm
Ü: H Roma 33 € o.Fr.
AE (H): Crevettencocktail, Hähnchen, Pf, Crème Catalán, Rw, Cafe 15,30 €
Mi 25.6.
Cubells – Camaras – Alt de Fontllonga (671m) – Pas de Terradets – Cellers – Guàrdia de Noguera – Coll de Fabregada (942m) – Alsamora – Punta de Mont-rebei – Puente de Montanaña 83 km | 11,7 km/h | 7:04 h | 1450 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
ME (Cellers/H/R Terradets): Westernkartoffeln, Calamares, Zitronenlimonade 9,80 €
AE: Hähnchenschnitzel, Pf, Spiegelei mit kl. Steaks, Rw, Crème Caramel, Cafe 14,60 €
Do 26.6.
Puente de Montanaña – Sopeira – Pont de Suert – Barruera – Boí – Taüll (1480m) 61 km | 11,4 km/h | 5:18 h | 1235 Hm
Ü: C Taüll 10,60 €
AE: Kroketten, Entrecôte, Bratkart., Gemüse, Ananas, RoseW, Cafe 18,75 € (–)
Fr 27.6.
Taüll – Boí – Aigüestortes (Parkplatz Zubringerbus, ca. 1800m) – (exc. Wanderung Aigüestortes: Estany Llong – Estany Redó & retour, ca. 7 h) – Barruera – Les Bordes – Camping Baleira – Hotel Montsana – Camping Baleira 54 km | 14,2 km/h | 3:49 h | 885 Hm
Ü: C Baleira 10,40 €
AE (H/R Montsana): Oliven, Schnecken in Kräutersauce, Ente mit Rosinen, Pilzen & Kart., Crème Caramel, Cafe 32,30 € (+)
B: NP Aigüestortes 0 €
Finishing the salt valley, you’ll reach Solsona, a nice old town and famous for its carnival and the handicraft of the huge motive heads. From Collada de Clarà there is a small road through the valley of Madrona, not signed in every map. For the next part I have taken the main road, but with heavy rain starting in Ponts. I just had to finish the day in a hostal, whole night still raining on. The canyons following north of Camaras are very impressing – sometimes you may think to be in Colorado. There is little infrastructure at all. From the Terradets lake there is a small road with some climbs via Alsamora to Mont-rebei. This is another canyon, which is worth to visit. If you have more time, take a walk – there some exciting bridges and pathes through the canyon. Even looking from north it is a great place. Not less great views you’ll expect in the Ribagorçana valley north, especially starting in Sopeira.
Next rain stop followed an the entrance of the Vall de Boí. So far, I reached Taüll, very cold the night. The Vall de Boí is famous for its romanic churches, the best known Sant Climent in Taüll, close to the camping. Finally I closed Catalunya with a walking day (even with some cycling parts) in the national parc Aigüestortes. For that you can ride until a parking place for the taxi busses. Even this road gives you tremendous views to the flowers, the lake and the waterfalls. And its still going on with great nature in an Alpine panorama, if you walk to Estany Llong, and maybe further on. If you want, you can stay the night in the hut close to Estany Llong.
French man, but of Catalan roots (father was a Catalan painter), great bass player: Renaud Garcia-Fons „Rock Wandering” (2:14 min., from Marcevol concert).Picture gallery for chapter 3 (186 Fotos):
CHAPTER 4 – ARAGÓN I: Sierra de Ballabriga, Sierra de Guara & Sierra de Loarre
Sa 28.6.
Camping Baleira – Bonansa – Puerto de Bonansa (1320m) – Obarra – Villacarli – Egea – Campo – Collado de Foradada (1020m) – Ainsa 81 km | 13,7 km/h | 5:44 h | 1290 Hm
Ü: C Ainsa 11 €
AE (Bodegas del Sobrarbe): Auberginen mit Fischfarce, Ossumbuca, Erbsen-Ei-Plätzchen, Käseeis mit Feigen karamelisiert, Rw, Cafe 21,50 € (++)
So 29.6.
Ainsa – Guaso – Arcusa – Collado de Eripol (860m) – Bárcabo – Collada de Arbe (805m) – Collado de San Caprasio (810m) – Puente de las Gargantas – Colungo – Adahuesca – Bierge – Puerto de Sierra de Rufas (867m) – Las Almunias – Rodellar 93 km | 12,0 km/h | 7:40 h | 1540 Hm
Ü: C Mascun 10,50 €
AE (La Parada el Olvido): Lammkotelett, Pf, gegr. Paprika, Crème Caramel, Rw, Cafe 16,50 €
Mo 30.6.
Rodellar (exc. walking: Rodellar – Fuente de Mascun – Fuente de Otín – Dolmen Losa Mora – Fuente de Mascun – Rodellar) 0 km | – km/h | 0:00 h | 0 Hm
Ü: C Mascun 10,50 €
AE (Florentina): warmer Spargel-Bohnen-Gambas-Salat, Rindergulasch in Rw-Sauce, Pf, Himbeercrèmetorte, Cafe 19 €
B: Mascun 0 €
Di 1.7.
Rodellar – Las Almunias – Puerto de Sierra de Rufas (867m) – Bierge – Morrano – Yaso – Santa Cilia de Panzano – Aguas – Bandaliés – Huesca 83 km | 13,3 km/h | 6:00 h | 1035 Hm
Ü: C San Jorge 9,90 €
AE (Hervi): Reis mit Pilzen & Calamari, Dorade, Schoko-Ku., Rw, Cafe 14,50 €
Mi 2.7.
Huesca – Apiés – Nueno – Arguis – Collado A Barza (1126m) – Rasal – Triste – Murillo de Gállego 76 km | 12,2 km/h | 6:11 h | 1070 Hm
Ü: H Los Mallos 35 € m. Fr.
AE (H): Weiße Bohnen mit Speck, Holzfällersteak, Pf, Milchcrème mit Honig, Rw, Cafe 23,10
The Bonansa pass is still beautiful, especially southward the Obarra canyon with Isabena valley. I changed to the west with a strange landscape looking like planetary ground. This continued after a short interlude at Campo with an ancient bridge over the water. There are a lot of people doing Canyoning and rafting sports. Ainsa is a wonderful medieval town on a hill (new town down at the river). You get a lot of specialities in the shops, but in the restaurants, too. By day, there is a fantastic panorama to the mountains around the Monte Perdido. This panorama is still at your eyes view, if going south to the Sierra de Guara and if not hidden by other mountains. Then some up and downs until Bierge. In Alquezar there is a nice old bride again.
From Bierge the way to Rodellar is first climbing, later falling. This village in the mountains ist a special place for free climbers and canyonists. But you always can do a lot of walks around there. It’s really fantastic. There are a lot of surrealistic forms of stones. If you are a good mountain biker, you maybe found some interesting trails. With a travel bike you have to ride back to Bierge. Further the route is less important, but very tranquil. Maybe you get chance to look at the vulture museum in Santa Cilia de Panzano. I was in bad luck and the museum was closed.
The provincal capital Huesca is in the plain, but the canyons and mountains not far. I missed the Vadiello lake with another impressing show of stones (you can see something, because I used a tele objective). Huesca seems to be something like a shopping city, but I felt not so well at this place. There no real charming atmosphere. Instead you should know that infrastructure around is very low. It’s very difficult to find something to buy or to eat. You can ride an old road aside the Monrepos road, which is a new autovia. From Arguis to Collado A Braza you’ll find the rest of the Sierra de Guara in the west – again a lot of yellow broom. Next around the Pena lake was a terrible adventure for me, because several thunderstorms made a lot of trouble, even maybe someway dangerous. Close to my final hostal in Murillo I have seen the giant rocks of Los Mallos – its very impressing – or as I always used to say: a-STONE-ishing.
Jota, traditional dance of Aragón, well known in whole Spain, a guitar piece: Aldo Lagrutta „Gran Jota Aragonesa” (F. Tárrega) (7:55 min.).Picture gallery for chapter 4 (210 Fotos):
CHAPTER 5 – NAVARRA I/ARAGÓN II-a/b: Through Cinco Villas to the Bárdenas Reales, the valleys of Rio Aragón to Canfranc[/u]
Do 3.7.
Murillo – Ayerbe – Puerto Sierra Mayor (902m) – Biel-Fiencalderas – Luesia – Uncastillo – Sádaba – Alera 100 km | 14,3 km/h | 6:54 h | 1190 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Bar Piscina): Steak, Pf, Salat, Bier 10 € (–)
Fr 4.7.
Alera – NA124/dev. Bardenas Reales – El Paso – El Caldero – La Cruceta – Corral de Zapata – Cuartel militar – Aguilares/Info-Zentrum BR – Arguedas – Ermita de la Virgin del Yugo – Portillo del Trillo (385m) – Embalse El Ferial/Los Portillos – Rada Errada – Mélida – Carcastillo (+) 98 km | 11,9 km/h | 8:13 h | 830 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE: Selbstversorgung
Sa 5.7.
Carcastillo (+) – San Isidro del Pinar – Alto de la Sierra (641m) – Cáseda – Aibar – Puerto Aibar (704m) – Lumbier – Hoz de Lumbier – Alto de Liédana (549m) – Yesa – Berdún – Puente la Reina 102 km | 13,2 km/h | 7:40 h | 1320 Hm
Ü: H Anaya 28 € o.Fr.
AE (Anaya): Paella, geb. Scholle, Pudding, Rw, Cafe 15,50 €
So 6.7.
Puente de la Reina – Hecho – Siresa – El Centro de Interpretación del Megalitismo Pirenaico y de la Val d'Echo – Hecho – dev. Rio Osia – Jasa – Collado de la Loma de Aísa (1227m) – Aísa – Borau – Collado de la Sierra los Angels (1143m) – Villanúa – Canfranc – Canfranc-Estación 93 km | 11,1 km/h | 8:19 h | 1615 Hm
Ü: H Albergue Pepito Grillo 15 € m. Fr.
AE (Pizzeria): Spaghetti Carbonara, Steaks, Pf, Crème Caramel, Rw, Cafe 15,40 € (–)
Again I follow through a very remote area, after short shopping in Ayerbe, where you’ll find fine bakery products as well specialities of mushrooms. There are next only a few villages, and I had some rain again on the day. If you want to stay in a nice town, you should choose Uncastillo (not Sadaba). Even there is a good youth hostel. Then landscape is very plain. Next sensational part then follows through the Bardenas Reales. This is a very special landscape, someway like a desert, but not only that. You may follow the main offroad route, which is allowed for cars, too. There are some mountianbike routes, too. But you should know them, because it isn’t allowed to ride every way you’ll see. There are controls in the parc, of course. There is just one information centre, but its not very prominent. I had a very unsusual weather for summertime. Normally it’s very hot and you may think of enough water. If rainy, maybe you feel angry by some moscitos. The only hostal in the parc (Yugo) was closed. So you have to go to Argueda – there some old holes in the stone, where humanbeings lived in earlier times.
Northward is an agricultural area, with some sunflowers, wheat, even vinery – up and down, but not hard. At Aibar there are a lot of windmills. In Lumbier you can follow through the small Foz de Lumbier with a bike on an old railway path. It’s an open museum to watch vulture and of course an impressing canyon. Next coming to the lake of Yesa, which also known as “The sea of the Pyrenees”. That is to say, you’ll see a lot of impressions in blue. Some parts of the road are now autovia and the old road is just quiet and some pilgrim use it, too. Be back on the road, you reach via Berdún the small village of Punte de la Reina, where you find essential infrastructure like hotel, restaurant, supermarket and oil station – but not more.
Better than to follow the Aragón river via Jaca, it’s worth to ride the valleys aside there. You follow first the Hecho valley, then the Rio Osia, via Aísa to the upper Aragón valley. Maybe it’s worth to ride in the blind alley like the upper Hecho valley. Again my route was shortend by rain and thunderstorm. Hecho and Siresa are nice villages, even with some modern artistry. Another good place for staying some time with a bike is Aísa.
Back in the Aragón valley, you see a lot of pilgrims, and some more traffic. Because of Somport tunnel (since 2003) there is still little traffic in Canfranc and to the Somport pass (as well, the tunnel was closed, Iwwas there. In spite of that there was not much traffic.) In Canfranc-Estación I had another heavy rain and to stay in pilgrim hostal. The main attraction is an old railway station, once very luxury, today just two or three trains starting. Still the station is going to be a museum.
The dance Jota, well known in Navarra, too, created by a virtuosic violine player: Pablo de Sarasate „Jota Aragonesa“ (5:09 min.).Picture gallery for chapter 5 (167 Fotos):
CHAPTER 6 – FRANCE II: Béarn & Hautes-Pyrénées with Parc National de Pyrénées
Mo 7.7.
Canfranc-Estación – Puerto Somport (1650m) – Urdos – Etsaut – Lescun (900m) – L'Estanguet – Bedous – Asasp – Eysus – Oloron-Ste-Marie 91 km | 13,7 km/h | 6:36 h | 1160 Hm
Ü: C Stade municipal 0 €
AE (eine Brasserie in Ste-Marie): Gänseleber-Salat mit Speck & Spargel, Ente in Cidre-Sauce, Westernkart., Apfeltorte, Rw, Cafe 29,90 € (+)
Di 8.7.
Oloron-Ste-Marie – Belair – Rébenacq – Lys – Bruges-Capbis-Mifraget – Col de Tisne (496m) – Arthez-D'Asson – Etchartes – Col de Spandelles (1378m) – Argèles-Gazost – Baucens – Argèles – Beaucens – Arbouix 109 km | 11,4 km/h | 9:35 h | 2265 Hm
W: morgens heiter, später giftiger Nieselregen, windig, 22-12 °C
Ü: C Hautacam 7,83 €
AE (Brasserie Argèles): Quiche Lorraine, Spaghetti Bolognese, Rw, Cafe ~ 15 € (––)
Mi 9.7.
Arbouix – Argèles – Luz-St-Saveur – Gèdre – Gavarnie (1375m) 50 km | 10,0 km/h | 4:54 h | 1130 Hm
Ü: C La Bergerie 9,70 €
AE (Le Gourmet Bistro): Forelle in Karottensauce, Entenschenkel in Rw-Sauce, Kart.puffer, Rw, Cafe Gourmand 26,50 € (+)
Do 10.7.
Gavarnie – (exc. walking Cirque de Gavarnie, ca.4 h) – Col de Tentes (2208m) – Gavarnie – Gèdre – Cirque de Troumouse (2138m) – Gèdre 66 km | 10,8 km/h | 5:54 h | 1935 Hm
Ü: C Le Mousca 0 €
AE (Pizzeria Gèdre): Gabure, Schafsteaks, Westerkart., Deserts ab Buffet, Rw, Cafe 26,30 € (–)
B: Cirque de Gavarnie 0 €
Fr 11.7.
Gèdre – St-Saveur – Soulom – Cauterets – Pont d'Espagne (1496m) – Cauterets – Soulom – Arcizans-Avant 71 km | 12,7 km/h | 5:32 h | 1325 Hm
Ü: C Chataignieres 15,40 €
AE (Chez Michele): Salat mit Entenbrust, Schinken, Spargel, Lammkotelett, Pf, Gemüse, Crêpe Chocolat, Rw, Cafe 24,30 €
Sa 12.7.
Arcizans-Avant – Estaing – Lac d'Estaing (1163m) (+) – Estaing – Col des Bordères (1156m) – Arrens-Marsous – 10 – Porte d'Arrens (1470m) – Arrens-Marsous – Col du Soulour (1474m) – Col d'Aubisque (1709m) – Laruns 88 km | 10,3 km/h | 8:35 h | 2365 Hm
Ü: C Laruns 0 €
AE (H/R L'Ossau): Salat mit Entenleber, Entenschenkel, Pf, Gateau basque, Rw, Cafe 21,20 € (+)
So 13.7.
Laruns – Bielle – Col de Marie-Blanque (1035m) – Escot – Pont-Suzon – Col d'Ichère (680m) – Lourdios-Ichère – Col de Labays (1351m) – Pas de Guilhers (1436m) – Col de Soudet (1540m) – Col de la Pierre St-Martin (1760m) – Portillo de Eraice (1578m) – Asolaze Isaba 92 km | 10,2 km/h | 9:01 h | 2525 Hm
Ü: C Asolaze Isaba ~14 €
AE (C): Gemüseteller, Hähnchenschenkel, Pf, Joghurt, Rw ~12 €
Even weather didn’t get better in France, better to say, it seemed to be getting worse. Finally even there I could find a mix of rainy and dusty days or day parts and some sunny days. The first three days, the bad weather still continued. At the Puerto de Somport I was in a cloud, still nothing to see like later on in Lescun. In the lower parts of the Vallée d’Aspe the situation was a little bit better. In the valley of Aspe you may follow the history of the train, as to say that the line to Spain (Canfranc, Zaragoza) was supended in 1970 because a bridge had broken and some people lost there life. In valley there are some charming villages like Urdos, Etsaut or Bedous, as well as the town of Oloron with its houses at the water.
I visitied the house of the national parc of the Pyrenees in Etsaut. You should know, that the national parc covers a long distance of the frontier part (to Spain) in France in Béarn and in Hautes-Pyrénées. So there are a lot of national parc houses like in Etsaut, Porte Arrens, Arrens-Marsous and others. You’ll find information about the flora and fauna of the parc, as well as for walking routes etc. In most parts of the national parc there is cycling not allowed. Sometimes the roads are just at the borderline of the parc. An exception is the road to Pont d’Espagne from Cauterets. That is what you shouldn’t miss on your tour. It’s a great show of waterfalls. Some smaller, but pretty waterfalls are in the small valley of Ouzom, which I found through some other small roads in the area.
Mor than just waterfalls – a huge celebration of stone walls are the Cirques de Gavarnie (for more astonishing views use a walk to the cirque) as the Cirque de Troumouse – but the last one I could just find in the cloud and by low temperature. For another hard climb to a blind alley you can go for the Col de Tentes with great mountain scenery. Because of the hard rainy weather I had to shorten my tour and I didn’t rode Hautacam and Luz Ardiden, two another panoramic blind alleys with strong elevations. I was surprised by the fantastic Vallée d’Arrens with a lake in last third of the route. It’s worth to do that. A little less interesting I looked to the route to Lac d’Estaing, where you should use to walk a longer distance for getting better impressions.
For the second time in my life I had heavy clouds at the Col du Soulor/Col d’Aubisques (and in the area my new pass Col de Spandelles, too). But the Aubisque pass is worth to mention with his steep slope and the road in its boldness. Even the Spandelles pass is very attractive on the west side. The final part of this chapter was following two hard climbs of Marie-Blanque (panoramic views in the east) and Pierre St-Martin. There are tow possibilies to ride the Pierre St-Martin pass – I followed the smallest road – it’s sometimes like a jungle. On top it’s different – very stone, planetary landscape, even on the Spanish side.
Music: Artist, who played at the Oloron Jazz Festival and wanted to visit, but still arriving one day too late: Kenny Garrett Quartet „Song for DiFang“ (5:26 min.)Picture gallery for chapter 6 (235 Fotos):
CHAPTER 7 – NAVARRA II/FRANCE III (a): The many shades of Iraty
Mo 14.7.
Asolaze Isaba – Isaba – Portillo de Lazar (1129m) – Ochagavía – Paso Tapia (1340m) – Casas de Irati – Embalse de Irabia(ko) – Orion – Arrazola – Orbeitzeta – Aribe – Abaurrea Alta 96 km | 11,2 km/h | 8:37 h | 1660 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (H/R Aribe): Salat, Schinkenplatte, Rw 15 € (–)
Di 15.7.
Abaurrea Alta – Alto de Remendia (1040m) – Jaurrieta – Alto de Jaurrieta (990m) – Ochagavia – Bar Abodi – Puerto de Larrau (1573m) – Col d'Erroymendi (1362m) – Larrau – D26/D113 – La Caserne – (exc. Wanderung Gorges de Kakouetta ca. 2,5 h) – Ste-Engrace (+)71 km | 12,0 km/h | 6:01 h | 1540 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Elichat): Wurst, Salat, Rw 7,50 € (––), (SV)
B: Gorges de Kakouetta 5 €
Mi 16.7.
Ste-Engrace (+) – Col de Suscousse (1216m) – Col de Ste-Gracie (1325m) – Col de la Taillade (1425m) – Col d'Issarbe (1445m) – Lanne-en-Barétous – Col de Sustary (444m) – Tardets-Sorholus – Mauléon-Licharre – Col d'Osquich (500m) – St-Just-Ibarre – Larceveau – Bunus 88 km | 12,0 km/h | 7:21 h | 1595 Hm
Ü: C Bunus 9,15 €
ME (Bistro Barretous): Blätterteig, Putenschitzel, Reis, Eis, Cafe 12 € (+)
AE (H/R in Larcevau): Salat, Entrecôte, Pf, Fruchtsalat, Rw, Cafe 24,20 € (–)
Do 17.7.
Bunus – Hosta – Col des Palombières (614m) – Lecumberry – Col de Landerre (1072m) – Col d'Aphanize (1055m) – Col Inharpu (1029m) – Col Burdin Olatze (892m) – 3 – Col d'Arhansus (928m) – Col Bagargui (1327m) – Col Heguichouri (1284m) – Lac d'Iraty (Iraty-Cize)58 km | 8,5 km/h | 6:42 h | 1905 Hm
Ü: C wild/Hütte 0 €
AE (Chalet d'Iraty Cize): Käse-/Schinkenplatte, kalter Nudelsalat, Crêpe Chocolat, Eis, Rw 23,30 € (–)
Fr 18.7.
Lac d'Iraty (Iraty-Cize) – Col de Sourzay (1140m) – Col d'Irau (1072m) – Col d'Arthaburu (1160m) – Col d'Arthe (937m) – Artzain Echea – Beherobie/Les Sources de la Nive – Col d'Arnostéguy (1236m) – Col d'Elhursaro (1135m) – Col Héganzo (850m) – Ondarolle – Arnéguy – St-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Bidarray (+) 85 km | 11,5 km/h | 7:29 h | 1615 Hm
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (H/R du Pont d'Enfer, Bidarray): Gabure, Forelle, Hähnchen bask., Pf, Gemüse, Gateau basque, Rw, Cafe 31,20 € (+)
For the Iraty (Irati) chapter there would be a lot to say about the atmosphere, because not every place is spectatcular. You should spent some time there – it isn’t done for a fast ride over some mountains. Even sometimes you should expect lower clouds, but in the higher parts you are maybe in the sun looking at the clouds down under in the valleys. There are mainly beech trees, if not free green hills with sheeps, horses an cows. In the woods you’ll find some mystic places, a lot of mushrooms as well. I think, the French part of Iraty is someway more interesting, but some parts on the Spanish side I wouldn’t like to miss. Nice villages are Ochagavia and Jaurrieta. The last one got something famous after a fire, which destroyed the whole village. A great musician of the region, Pablo Sarasate, organized a concert for getting the money to rebuild the village.
The Spanish lake Irati you can follow by a good offroad route. In the Iraty region there are still a lot of possibilities for mountain biking, too. There are a very good information tables for the routes of different levels. Somewhere to stay inside Iraty maybe look for Casa Irati (Spain) or Iraty chalets (France). If you like a mountain village, I would recommend Larrau or just one hotel alone in the upper valley of the Nive – Source de la Nive (both in France).
You should know, that in the French part of Iraty there are a lot of steep roads, maybe the hardest of them the Col des Palombières. (So even the small ones are very steep, i.e. the Col de Sustary, somewhere outside of inner Iraty region.) Second there are just a few restaurants, hotels and shops (even bakeries just a few). So you should have an idea, how to make the tour. In the lower parts there are some little towns worth to visit like Tardets-Sorholus, Mauléon-Ichare (two castles) or the pilgrim centre of St-Pied-de-Port. (St-PdP I didn’t visit this time, because known from a former tour). Maybe the main attractions of the nature are some canyons, as to mention Holcarte, Ujarte and Kakouetta. I just had time for Kakouetta, the most impressing one, but still the most touristic one.
Music: A kind of special wood music (Txalaparta instrument): Oreka TX „Txalaparta Danza“ (2:40 min.)
Special Basque dance, created in Jaurrieta, only for women: Axuri Beltza – Danza de Jaurrieta (7:44 min.)
Special kind of Basque accordion music: Kepa Junkera „Bok Espok” (3:54 min.)Picture gallery for chapter 7 (176 Fotos):
CHAPTER 8 – NAVARRA II/FRANCE III (b): Laboure with Corniche Basque
Sa 19.7.
Bidarray (+) – Pas de Roland – Itxassou – Cambo-les-Bains – Espelette – Col de Pinodiéta (176m) – Ainhoa – Dancharia – Zugarramurdi – (exc. Wanderung Cuevas de Bruja, ca. 1 h) – Sare – Grotte de Sare – Sare – St-Pée-s-Nivelle – Ibarron – Ascain 70 km | 12,3 km/h | 5:31 h | 955 Hm
Ü: C Ascain 5 €
AE (Les Chasseurs): Platte mit Schinken, Patete, Gambas, Salat, Fischfilet, Püree, Rw, Pfirsich-Blätterteig, Cafe 31 €
B (Espelette): L'Atelier du Piment
B (Espelette): Galerie Cortez
B (Zugarrimundi): Cuevas Z./Museo de las Brujas 7,50 €
So 20.7.
Ascain – Ciboure – Socoa – Hendaye Plage – Hendaye SNCF 27 km | 10,4 km/h | 2:23 h | 280 Hm
Ü: Nachtzug
AE (Luisito): Entrecôte, Pf, Salat, Apfeltorte, Cidre, Cafe
The Labourde region is much more crowded than Iraty. So there is a lot of culture to find as well as some specialites. You should take a look on Espelette with its special pepper. There ar many products done with pepper, of course chocolate. For chocolate you’ll find best stores in Espelette and maybe in Cambo-les-Bains, the international renowned Puyodebat. Next I would recommend the
Galerie Cortez. between the L’Atelier du Piment and Espelette village. Daniel Rodriguez is a graphic painter and has developed his own style with some biting humour. Aside paper painting he uses tiles and figures of clay to express his fantasy. Next worth to visit is the museum of witches in the Spanish village Zugarramurdi, close to the borderline. You’ll find a cave of the witches there, too. If have time, maybe try to visit the cave in Sare, but was closed for me (early mankind).
A lot of towns or villages are worth to take a look on with its Basque framework, maybe to mention first Ainhoa, Cambo-les-Bains (lower part), Espelette and the small harbour town Ciboure. There three important natural sightseeing projects: the mountain La Rhune, with a train to climb, but yet didn’t get the possibility this time. The Pas de Roland, a small hole in a big stone, which ist reflected with a legend of Roland – a knight, once fighting against the Basque people under the command of Karl der Große. And third the Corniche de Basque, which seems to be the best side-scene for a tour of many many dreaming moments – or as I say in the German tale – the right place for the tragic destiny of Pirineosaurus.
Please take a look on the Fort Socoa, before starting the natural Corniche and find the castle Abbadia at the end of the Corniche. Abbadia was founded by an Irish man of Basque origin, a scientist of different skills, best known as a geologist, who has developed the first landscape of Ethiopia, but analysed the Basque language, too. In Hendaye there is a large beach, even more remote, if go east for the two single stones in the sea.
Music: Born in Ciboure, great impressionist, best for the sea impressions: Maurice Ravels „Miroirs III – Une Barque sur l’Ocean” (7:15 min., mit toller Bilderkollektion).Picture gallery for chapter 8 (121 Fotos):
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