Posted by: MichKai
Re: Sicily - 11/13/07 08:33 PM
I've been on a two week trip through Sicily in May 2006. It consisted of
- 8 full-day stages with complete luggage
- 3 part-day stages with complete luggage
- 1 part-day stage without luggage
- 2 full-day stages without luggage
The complete distance adding up to about 1500 kilometers organized as a round-trip around Sicily covering almost the complete island with the exception of some of the inner parts, a section in the south east of the island (Golfo di Noto) and the north-eastern coast. Starting and end-point is the airport of Palermo. Another possibility certainly is the airport of catania.
Bed and breakfast are an attractive and cheap possibility for overnight stays. In some cases, I've chosen hotels instead.
06.05.06 44 km Palermo Aeroporto - Punta Raisi - Terrasini - Castellammare ([1], stages 33, 34)
from the airport of Palermo, which is about 30 kilometers north-west of Palermo on a small plain between the high rocks of M. Pecoraro and the mar tirreno. From here I started to a half-day stage along the coast, following the No. 187 to the west.
07.05.06 156 km Castellammare - Segesta - Erice - Trapani (Erice) - Marsala - Marzara del Vallo - Selinunte ([1], stages 37, 38, 40, 41, 42, variants: southern descend of Erice and roads from Mazara del Vallo to Campobello de Mazara)
The longest stage of the journey is leading around the western part of Sicily. First it is following the friendly valley of F. Freddo and F. Caldo to the exposed temple of Segesta that requires some time for a closer look. Then following small roads via Bruca and Buseto Palizzolo through gorgeous chains of hills to the outstanding hill of Erice, that definitely deserves being ascended on its north side providing breathtaking outlooks across sea and coast below. The town of Erice partly is flooded with tourist, but some almost deserted beautiful cobbled lanes can be found as well.
The southern descend on a merely narrow road is absolutely great for its visions of the steep hillsides and the blinking patterns of the salt-pits of Trapani and that town itself.
After criss-crossing the outskirts of Trapani and following the dense traffic towards the south, the coastal town of Marsala is reached after about 29 kilometers. I continue on smaller roads along the coast towards Mazara del Vallo and then through the vineyards north of the big A29 almost straigt to Castellvetrano and after some more kilometers through the growing dark of night, the No. 115d leading to the south to the temples of Selinunte is reached.
08.05.06 120 km Selinunte - Menfi - Sciacca - Ribera - Cattolica Eraclea - Agrigento ([1], variant of stage 43, part of stage 24)
After a walk through the impressive temples of Selinunte, this stages leads to the east along the coast to another place famous for its town, Agrigento, and its valley of temples.
The 35 km from Selinunte to Sciacca can be traveled on a calm road south of the No. 115. But 10 km east of Sciacca unfortunately there is no alternative to the No. 115 itself, that has to be followed to the departure to Ribera. The way via Cattolica is pure fun, as the road winds up and down the beautiful hill til the Valley west of Agrigento is reached. Then it is a little difficult and frightening to fight the way across big roads into the centre (on the way from the north-west side there are some uncomfortable uphill bridges).
09.05.06 120 km Agrigento - S. Leone - Naro - Ravanusa - Riesi - Mazzarino - Piazza Armerina. ([1], variation of stages 22, 31 and 32)
Another morning decorated with lots of temples in the valley of temples of Agrigento. The way first leads out of Agrigento down the south slopes of the city hill to the valley of temples. For lack of time I left out the museum and continued to the shores of S. Leone and to the south-east to the No. 115 at Plla. di Rocca Corvo. Then furher to the inside of the island via Naro, Ravanusa, Mazzarino, where the used roads sometimes are slightly too broad and providing too much traffic. The last few kilometers from Mazzarino to Piazza Armerina are definitely much more pleasant.
10.05.06 110 km Piazza Armerina - Mirabella - Caltagirone - Mazzarrone - Chiaramonte - Ragusa
Anoter morning with almost no cycling because I'm busy visiting the world heritage site Villa del Casale in the valley west of Piazza Armerina. The stage then leads almost strictly to the south west, via Mirabella with a first glimpse of Mt. Aetna on the horizon, to Caltagirone visiting its beautiful stairs in the centre. The western plains of Monte Iblei are climbed at the town of Chiaramonte, approaching Ragusa from the north.
11.05.06 123 km Ragusa - Modica - Palazzolo Acreide - Buccheri - Sortino - Siracusa ([1], stages 17, 19, 7, 6)
After crossing the broad valley of F. Irminio I have a little taste of the extraordinary cioccolato di Modica, which is manufactured there with uncommon tastes like white pepper or nutmeg. The way to Siracusa leads up to the top of Monte Iblei, which is reached at Palazzolo Acreide. Then I cycle along the deep gorges of F. Anapo and across M. Climititi with its strange hydroelectric power plant down to plantations of oranges and lemons. The hotel is only some few steps from the bridge to Ortygia, the old part of town.
12.05.06 135 km Siracusa - Priolo Gargallo - Melilli - Lentini - Catania - Nicolosi ([1], stages 9, 4, 3, 1, 64, with variants)
The first part of this stage leads along a broad road along the coast, then from Melilli to Lentini on nice roads between the hills. Followed by the vast Piana Catanina, the passage of the airport and a straight crossing of Catania, the finale is the southern ramp of Mt. Aetna to Nicolosi.
13.05.06 38 km Nicolosi - Linguaglossa ([1], stages 67, 68)
In this two-part stage the luggage is first being cycled to the other side of Mt. Aetna, to Linguaglossa.
120 km Montanie del Peloritane: Linguaglossa - Castiglione - Francavilla - Sella Mandrazzi - Fondachelli - Antillo - Taormina - Piedimonte - Linguaglossa
Because of the clouds that have covered the top of Mt. Aetna that fast that day, I decide for the round-trip to Monti Peloritani, without luggage, of course. Unfortunately, the track south of the peak of M. Pomaro seems to be unusable, perhaps because of a landslide (a way which would almost have kept me on a good altitude of about 1000 meters). So I have to use the alternative, that first leads me all way down to Fondachelli and then on a steep road back up into the mountains. To be back to Linguaglossa in time, I have to take the direct way back to the coast via Antillo and the valley of F. di Agrò (otherwise I would have liked to try the road along the mountain tops in direction of Messina). For lack of time I also have to leave out the sights of Taormina and finally reach my B&B shortly after sundown.
14.05.06 28 km Linguaglossa - Rifugio Brunek, Piano Provenzana, Rifugio Citelli (Aetna Nord) , Aetna South - Linguaglossa ([1], part of stage 70)
Today, there's just one possibility: The northern ramp of Mt. Aetna to the highest reacheable point at about 1600 m. Then I raced back down to Rifugio Brunek and started for the second part...
32 km Offroad Aetna West from Rifugio Brunek to Rifugio Sapienza ([1], stage 73)
A great way of getting close to the nature on Mt. Aetna by bike. Beware of the free roaming herds of cattle (especially when with calfs) and the caterpillars (in long processions on the track with ugly rash causing hair). Located on altitudes between 1400 m and about 1900 m and also crossing some lava fields of the eruption of 2003.
42 km Rifugio Sapienza, Zafferana Etnea, Milo, Linguaglossa
In the third part, I first ascended to the vast black landscape of Rifugio Sapienza, then descended on the broad road to Zafarello and circeled the hill on about 700 m height back to Linguaglossa.
15.05.06 120 km Linguaglossa - Bronte - Cesaro - Sella del Miraglia - S. Teodoro - Cerami ([1], stages 66, 51)
The trip around Mt. Aetna is left at Bronte to head back to the west. At Cesaro, I leave the direction for a short visit of the Nébrodi with calm forests and wide green rounded hilltops, sometimes covered with mist coming up from the sea. Back down at S. Teodoro, I take the complicated road via C. Mezzalora and Lago di Ancipa, that permanently ascends or descends along the mountainside and provides a rather rugged pavement. Because of the long duration of that section, I can just reach Cerami at sundown so I just stay there.
16.05.06 120 km Cerami - Nicosia - Sperlinga - Gangi - Petralia - Piano Bataglia - Piano Zucchi - Collesano - Campofelice di Roccella ([1], stages 50, 49)
After a fast descend from Cerami, I finally reached the vivid town of Nicosia. Next sights are reached in famous Sperlinga. After I passed Gangi and Petralia, I crossed the breathtaking mountains of the Madonie (highest point at Piano Bataglia) and followed the long and winding road down to the sea, that is reached at Campofelice di Roccella.
17.05.06 150 km Campofelice di Roccella - Lascari - Gratteri - Isnello - Munciarrati - Piano Zucchi - Piano Battaglia - Petralia - Geraci - Castelbuono - Cefalu - Campofelice di Roccella ([1], variant of giro E)
Gorgeos round trip without luggage spanning most of the Madonie.
18.05.06 70 km Campofelice di Roccella - Palermo ([1], stages 46, part of 47)
Relaxing half day tour along the northern coast back to Palermo.
19.05.06 Way back from Palermo to its airport, traveled by bus with the boxed bike in the luggage compartment.
May has definitely been a good choice for cycling Sicily because the whole island is covered in flowers, from the colourfull meadows of the lowlands to the yellow broom on the slopes of Mt. Aetna.
I've had the impression, that the roads might be more slippery in wet conditions, especially inside of towns, because they are sometimes as if being polished. In one of the seldom showers of rain, I almost immediately slipped and fell from my bike. That might for sure be more critical in January of February.
Literature:
[1] Sizilien per Rad (Carmen Fischer / Helmut Walter, Verlag Wolfgang Kettler, 2. Auflage 2006)
- 8 full-day stages with complete luggage
- 3 part-day stages with complete luggage
- 1 part-day stage without luggage
- 2 full-day stages without luggage
The complete distance adding up to about 1500 kilometers organized as a round-trip around Sicily covering almost the complete island with the exception of some of the inner parts, a section in the south east of the island (Golfo di Noto) and the north-eastern coast. Starting and end-point is the airport of Palermo. Another possibility certainly is the airport of catania.
Bed and breakfast are an attractive and cheap possibility for overnight stays. In some cases, I've chosen hotels instead.
06.05.06 44 km Palermo Aeroporto - Punta Raisi - Terrasini - Castellammare ([1], stages 33, 34)
from the airport of Palermo, which is about 30 kilometers north-west of Palermo on a small plain between the high rocks of M. Pecoraro and the mar tirreno. From here I started to a half-day stage along the coast, following the No. 187 to the west.
07.05.06 156 km Castellammare - Segesta - Erice - Trapani (Erice) - Marsala - Marzara del Vallo - Selinunte ([1], stages 37, 38, 40, 41, 42, variants: southern descend of Erice and roads from Mazara del Vallo to Campobello de Mazara)
The longest stage of the journey is leading around the western part of Sicily. First it is following the friendly valley of F. Freddo and F. Caldo to the exposed temple of Segesta that requires some time for a closer look. Then following small roads via Bruca and Buseto Palizzolo through gorgeous chains of hills to the outstanding hill of Erice, that definitely deserves being ascended on its north side providing breathtaking outlooks across sea and coast below. The town of Erice partly is flooded with tourist, but some almost deserted beautiful cobbled lanes can be found as well.
The southern descend on a merely narrow road is absolutely great for its visions of the steep hillsides and the blinking patterns of the salt-pits of Trapani and that town itself.
After criss-crossing the outskirts of Trapani and following the dense traffic towards the south, the coastal town of Marsala is reached after about 29 kilometers. I continue on smaller roads along the coast towards Mazara del Vallo and then through the vineyards north of the big A29 almost straigt to Castellvetrano and after some more kilometers through the growing dark of night, the No. 115d leading to the south to the temples of Selinunte is reached.
08.05.06 120 km Selinunte - Menfi - Sciacca - Ribera - Cattolica Eraclea - Agrigento ([1], variant of stage 43, part of stage 24)
After a walk through the impressive temples of Selinunte, this stages leads to the east along the coast to another place famous for its town, Agrigento, and its valley of temples.
The 35 km from Selinunte to Sciacca can be traveled on a calm road south of the No. 115. But 10 km east of Sciacca unfortunately there is no alternative to the No. 115 itself, that has to be followed to the departure to Ribera. The way via Cattolica is pure fun, as the road winds up and down the beautiful hill til the Valley west of Agrigento is reached. Then it is a little difficult and frightening to fight the way across big roads into the centre (on the way from the north-west side there are some uncomfortable uphill bridges).
09.05.06 120 km Agrigento - S. Leone - Naro - Ravanusa - Riesi - Mazzarino - Piazza Armerina. ([1], variation of stages 22, 31 and 32)
Another morning decorated with lots of temples in the valley of temples of Agrigento. The way first leads out of Agrigento down the south slopes of the city hill to the valley of temples. For lack of time I left out the museum and continued to the shores of S. Leone and to the south-east to the No. 115 at Plla. di Rocca Corvo. Then furher to the inside of the island via Naro, Ravanusa, Mazzarino, where the used roads sometimes are slightly too broad and providing too much traffic. The last few kilometers from Mazzarino to Piazza Armerina are definitely much more pleasant.
10.05.06 110 km Piazza Armerina - Mirabella - Caltagirone - Mazzarrone - Chiaramonte - Ragusa
Anoter morning with almost no cycling because I'm busy visiting the world heritage site Villa del Casale in the valley west of Piazza Armerina. The stage then leads almost strictly to the south west, via Mirabella with a first glimpse of Mt. Aetna on the horizon, to Caltagirone visiting its beautiful stairs in the centre. The western plains of Monte Iblei are climbed at the town of Chiaramonte, approaching Ragusa from the north.
11.05.06 123 km Ragusa - Modica - Palazzolo Acreide - Buccheri - Sortino - Siracusa ([1], stages 17, 19, 7, 6)
After crossing the broad valley of F. Irminio I have a little taste of the extraordinary cioccolato di Modica, which is manufactured there with uncommon tastes like white pepper or nutmeg. The way to Siracusa leads up to the top of Monte Iblei, which is reached at Palazzolo Acreide. Then I cycle along the deep gorges of F. Anapo and across M. Climititi with its strange hydroelectric power plant down to plantations of oranges and lemons. The hotel is only some few steps from the bridge to Ortygia, the old part of town.
12.05.06 135 km Siracusa - Priolo Gargallo - Melilli - Lentini - Catania - Nicolosi ([1], stages 9, 4, 3, 1, 64, with variants)
The first part of this stage leads along a broad road along the coast, then from Melilli to Lentini on nice roads between the hills. Followed by the vast Piana Catanina, the passage of the airport and a straight crossing of Catania, the finale is the southern ramp of Mt. Aetna to Nicolosi.
13.05.06 38 km Nicolosi - Linguaglossa ([1], stages 67, 68)
In this two-part stage the luggage is first being cycled to the other side of Mt. Aetna, to Linguaglossa.
120 km Montanie del Peloritane: Linguaglossa - Castiglione - Francavilla - Sella Mandrazzi - Fondachelli - Antillo - Taormina - Piedimonte - Linguaglossa
Because of the clouds that have covered the top of Mt. Aetna that fast that day, I decide for the round-trip to Monti Peloritani, without luggage, of course. Unfortunately, the track south of the peak of M. Pomaro seems to be unusable, perhaps because of a landslide (a way which would almost have kept me on a good altitude of about 1000 meters). So I have to use the alternative, that first leads me all way down to Fondachelli and then on a steep road back up into the mountains. To be back to Linguaglossa in time, I have to take the direct way back to the coast via Antillo and the valley of F. di Agrò (otherwise I would have liked to try the road along the mountain tops in direction of Messina). For lack of time I also have to leave out the sights of Taormina and finally reach my B&B shortly after sundown.
14.05.06 28 km Linguaglossa - Rifugio Brunek, Piano Provenzana, Rifugio Citelli (Aetna Nord) , Aetna South - Linguaglossa ([1], part of stage 70)
Today, there's just one possibility: The northern ramp of Mt. Aetna to the highest reacheable point at about 1600 m. Then I raced back down to Rifugio Brunek and started for the second part...
32 km Offroad Aetna West from Rifugio Brunek to Rifugio Sapienza ([1], stage 73)
A great way of getting close to the nature on Mt. Aetna by bike. Beware of the free roaming herds of cattle (especially when with calfs) and the caterpillars (in long processions on the track with ugly rash causing hair). Located on altitudes between 1400 m and about 1900 m and also crossing some lava fields of the eruption of 2003.
42 km Rifugio Sapienza, Zafferana Etnea, Milo, Linguaglossa
In the third part, I first ascended to the vast black landscape of Rifugio Sapienza, then descended on the broad road to Zafarello and circeled the hill on about 700 m height back to Linguaglossa.
15.05.06 120 km Linguaglossa - Bronte - Cesaro - Sella del Miraglia - S. Teodoro - Cerami ([1], stages 66, 51)
The trip around Mt. Aetna is left at Bronte to head back to the west. At Cesaro, I leave the direction for a short visit of the Nébrodi with calm forests and wide green rounded hilltops, sometimes covered with mist coming up from the sea. Back down at S. Teodoro, I take the complicated road via C. Mezzalora and Lago di Ancipa, that permanently ascends or descends along the mountainside and provides a rather rugged pavement. Because of the long duration of that section, I can just reach Cerami at sundown so I just stay there.
16.05.06 120 km Cerami - Nicosia - Sperlinga - Gangi - Petralia - Piano Bataglia - Piano Zucchi - Collesano - Campofelice di Roccella ([1], stages 50, 49)
After a fast descend from Cerami, I finally reached the vivid town of Nicosia. Next sights are reached in famous Sperlinga. After I passed Gangi and Petralia, I crossed the breathtaking mountains of the Madonie (highest point at Piano Bataglia) and followed the long and winding road down to the sea, that is reached at Campofelice di Roccella.
17.05.06 150 km Campofelice di Roccella - Lascari - Gratteri - Isnello - Munciarrati - Piano Zucchi - Piano Battaglia - Petralia - Geraci - Castelbuono - Cefalu - Campofelice di Roccella ([1], variant of giro E)
Gorgeos round trip without luggage spanning most of the Madonie.
18.05.06 70 km Campofelice di Roccella - Palermo ([1], stages 46, part of 47)
Relaxing half day tour along the northern coast back to Palermo.
19.05.06 Way back from Palermo to its airport, traveled by bus with the boxed bike in the luggage compartment.
May has definitely been a good choice for cycling Sicily because the whole island is covered in flowers, from the colourfull meadows of the lowlands to the yellow broom on the slopes of Mt. Aetna.
I've had the impression, that the roads might be more slippery in wet conditions, especially inside of towns, because they are sometimes as if being polished. In one of the seldom showers of rain, I almost immediately slipped and fell from my bike. That might for sure be more critical in January of February.
Literature:
[1] Sizilien per Rad (Carmen Fischer / Helmut Walter, Verlag Wolfgang Kettler, 2. Auflage 2006)